As for operators with an AC motor, I was told this
"We only support Operators with DC powered door motors. Also, Smartrise Doesn't supply the Smart Tech 2 you will have to source it. TKE Sells mod kit for AC model we can use SmartTech II, Mods to HDLM interface. "
I can't quite find the email where Smart Tech 2 talk originated. In the end, with the DC motor it was a super simple mod. Much better than trying to figure out how to make GAL door hardware and locks work on TK doors. I had that issue installing a MOVFR on an older Montgomery. That was a freaking nightmare.
Your last reply got me checking, you were correct, it was a 120VDC. The mechanic who did the survey forgot his one. I was chasing the wrong voltage. We are using the D2000 board, as we had a few in stock. Interfacing the DOL/DGL and Closedowns we will use a set of relays to change the state of the NO sensors that are there now and will add two sensors for the slow downs.
Indirtwetrust,
Thanks for that info, it will come in handy on the next one.
They have recently announced they give 5 years warranty for all these low quality and wrong designed controllers! How can they afford 5 years warranty when the drive manufacturers, soft-starter manufacturers, contactor manufacturers and even electronic board component manufacturers have maximum a couple years warranty for the parts! Then Smartrise put them together, like a wrong puzzle, and give 5 years warranty!? THEY ARE TRYING TO SELL AS MANY CONTROLLERS AS THEY CAN AND THEN CLOSE THE COMPANY IN A COUPLE YEARS. Right now they have terrible technical support, in a couple years there will be NO technical support and NO spare parts. Just my thoughts
Both of these door operators are European style, which typically have more safety features, such as cabin door interlock (no gate switch, which could get purposefully or inadvertently activated at the wrong time, and no "less reliable" door restrictor, which could become a snag hazard, in the case of the angle-iron variety, or purposefully jammed in the unlocked position by a tech, in the case of the GAL/MAC?Miami Elevator variety, or even worse jam in the locked position with dead battery, in the case of Adams HatchLatch). With interlock, door cannot be moved ajar. Also, no need for ugly sheet metal between landings on glass jobs. The clutch engages independently from the door movement, reducing a snag hazard due to misaligned doors. The doors can't be split apart at floor level causing door lock faults due to the clutch design.
In your case, I would recommend the Wittur product because it comes with a kit allowing you to retain your existing Miami Elevator hall door equipment; however you will have to replace the tracks on the cabin side and also the skate. Also, parts are available from multiple sources (KONE, TKE/Vertical Express, and Wittur) Link: https:/
The second choice would be the GAL MONXT. Unlike the Wittur product, you will need to rehang the doors with GAL hardware and also replace the door skate and the hall locks. This might be acceptable for just a few stops.
Flyer: https:/
Installation: https:/
Whatever you do, I wouldn't recommend harmonic op. They are just too outdated and don't offer all the safety features of Euro style operators. GAL is the only company that still makes em. They need to stop, lol. Especially in today's day and age. See first paragraph to learn more. Another downside to harmonic ops is that same make and models can become self locking (operator can move the door but door can't move operator). This can cause problems during entrapment where the only way to get the door open is to climb on top and spin the infamous wheels. This can be dangerous is you have long floor runs (i.e. train stations). With linear operators, they are never self-locking. They can be easily opened from the floor or cab top. The amount of force needed is always uniform throughout the entire door cycle, to manually open the door. Plus, if the power is cut, the clutch is spring-loaded. If elevator is at floor during an entrapment, all that needs to be done from the outside is cut the juice and then manually open the door (no key or lock picking). If door arm bolts get loose or detached, they could fall on someone. With a belt operator, if the belt breaks, it will just loose traction and stop. Another bad thing is when they are used on glass door installs (propped up on pedestals. This creates trip hazards for workers and adds installation costs for taller hoistway.
If you really wanna see how dangerous a gate sw is. Check out this vid. Be glad it was equipped with DLM: https:/