Im thinking processor board? Any thoughts?
Then...
Found an identical (so it appears) hall pushbutton board in the shop and i gave that a try (why not its monday).
When i energized the controller i could smell the familiar smell of burnt resistor from the cop and now have a lifeless cpu. There is a flashing red light on the processor board and a quick check of controller fuses didnt show anything obvious. Any thoughts?
The watchdog red light is a good sign. Will the car run on inspection? Can you jump the calls directly on the COP to get the car to run? If you unplug the "new" 3 front button will the car do anything?
When i compared them, the only visible difference was the diode was missing the polarity stripe, if it was a jumper, the insulation looked very similar to a diode, and i recall there was a solid jumper wire on the opposite side of the pb from the diode. It was clearly for a hall pushbutton, which has a seperate interface to the controller.
If you forget about the oopsy for a minute and go back to the beginning...
When i swapped the existing pushbutton around to see if it would work on another floor input, the 3rd landing still wouldn't latch a call, even with a different assembly. Has anyone lost a car call input before in a similar way and replaced the input chips or entire board as a fix?
Also, i have an LRV4 board in stock, whats involved with the upgrade?
The LRV4 board needs a different hall button interface board and some changes in the wiring.
Im thinking processor board? Any thoughts?
Then...
Found an identical (so it appears) hall pushbutton board in the shop and i gave that a try (why not its monday).
When i energized the controller i could smell the familiar smell of burnt resistor from the cop and now have a lifeless cpu. There is a flashing red light on the processor board and a quick check of controller fuses didnt show anything obvious. Any thoughts?
I take this has a car pcb for serial connection to the controller? If so, then if you have swapped out the button assembly for another floor, of which should have worked(as it appeared these aren't coded for each floor), then to me the car pcb, or the controller has the issue of not latching the serial data. Either way the only real way to find this, will be start swapping boards. Now you have another issue which might take precedence. I always have a healthy cynical view on parts that aren't labelled as good from the depot. When I have these I always label them as good or bad.
the original host/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=354&Number=1683#Post1683
I enjoyed reading that old thread. And I just wanted to leave you with a quote!
"It's not easy being GREEN!"
Kermit the Frog
It was taking car calls and travelling to the appropriate floors, i left it running on independent for the boys to use.
When i energize, all input and output leds light up on the hall interface board. And it doesnt latch or respond to any hall calls so i figured on the board, considering its all i have left to replace.