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MCE / GAL DOOR PROBLEM

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 E311
(@E311)
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Your right on that one Vic-pretty much everybody for the last 30 years has electrically stopped the car before the brake sets. One of the big problems with mod is the addition of a brake switch to an old, worn out brake.



   
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(@GreenPants)
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i just see a lot of newer controls that slow down to 3 or 4 fpm then set the brake, like this '01 vintage mce stuff. im not sure if it was just never adjusted right or what. looking at the way the profiles are generated it never seems to stop completely and hold while the brake sets. seen it on brand new trx5's and tac50's that we picked up. of course brake timing becomes an issue shortly after install. i agree with the brake switch issue on old brakes that can be a hard one to adj.



   
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 E311
(@E311)
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Most brake timing happens way too fast for my liking! I like a nice "Japanese" profile. Your probably right in the fact that this stuff is not getting the attention it needs ☹️ How bout those US 1200 units that dont set the brake while loading and unloading



   
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(@Broke_Sheave)
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The old Westinghouse Epoch 1's releveled with the brake set...

I don't know of any 1200's that haven't been modded, but I remember them. Load weighing had to be spot on...Every one of those old single or dual speed AC's I've seen stopped on the brake, and a lot of the old Otis relay stuff had a brake "Relaxing" circuit, for the final leveling...



   
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 E311
(@E311)
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The UMV and MRS units have a soft brake relevel which is a really nice idea.



   
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 Len
(@Len)
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might try selling the customer a closed loop gal operator they are pretty good equipment..we currently use them on our mods and they are easy to set-up and maintain...



   
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(@Smitty)
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Vintage MCE stuff can be made to stop just fine. The problem is that most guys don't know how to properly set up the regulator( Black Box) or don't have access to a scope. If you ever read MCE's setup procedures it will state [ For professional results an oscilloscope must be used]. But having worked for a few companies that were too cheap to get one, I understand the dilemma faced by guys in the field. You do the best you can with what you have. If ES (electric stop) is set too far clockwise it can cause a continuous rocking in and out of the floor. The Current feedback circuit when set properly allows the car to hold zero speed. One of the constant failure in older MCEs are the crappy little Aromat relays used in the speed selection circuits. There have been many good ideas presented here and I do recommend verifying the HW brake is set properly even if it means tearing it down, cleaning, de-glazing the shoes, and lubricating all pins.



   
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