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Topic starter
21/10/2025 1:58 am
3 bank with a dispatcher. They have been acting funny and constantly going down. Usually able to get them back up and running after some relay changes.
We have tested and replaced every relay. Safety circuit made up (P). UA1 and DA1 latch when commanded, car won’t run on automatic.
21/10/2025 2:12 am
What I've seen with wcr jobs is you need to meter the contacts and not just replace relays because the bases have issues also.
21/10/2025 7:16 am
As low oil said, you need to look at the bases, sometimes the relays push the pins out then you plug them in. Then also look at the contacts on the selector, most of my call backs are wires breaking off on the selector, normally on the back side because its hard to get to LOL
21/10/2025 9:27 am
Might you have a timer problem? Start timer, generator time out etc? You’ve replace “all the relays”. In all controller cabinets? I’m sure there are certain relays interconnected to each other as well as to the dispatcher. I’d be looking at those relays as well as timers.
Topic starter
23/10/2025 7:35 am
Thanks, we need to look more into the timers and bases i think. The number 2 car was running on auto and accepting car calls. Hall calls was giving intermittent issues and then all the sudden it just stopped working and now all the relays are chattering while the car sits idle.
At one point, car and hall calls were working. Then stopped. Hit the door one time and then it started working again.
The car controller, we have removed every relay, installed nee pin and tested each relay. We have been trying to check the bases/sockets to ensure they arent too loose.
Moving to the dispatcher next. Any suggestions on the timers?
24/10/2025 4:54 am
Does your relay tester have separate LEDs for the N/O and N/C contacts?
Topic starter
24/10/2025 5:32 am
Using the sees relay tester and volt meter.
24/10/2025 7:10 am
Beware the IBM relay testers that don’t have separate LEDs for the N/O and N/C contacts. It’s really easy to get the pins crossed up on an IBM relay, especially if you go through a whole controller. If the pins crossed up so both N/C and N/O are always made the Sees tester that uses the same 2 color LED for the N/O and N/C will test good.