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Kone ecospace floor stop tuning

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 Vic
(@Vic)
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Hello, friends!

So we got this Kone MX20 PMSM flat motor removed, rewound, re-installed, set the resolver angle, polarity, tach polarity, did a shaft learn, adon learn, and this thing now runs on automatic, to all floors! Hooray! Thanks to all of you, my friends!

Only thing is this, when it comes to a floor, it levels in normally, then it comes to an accurate stop normally, then the c/o doors open up. All good so far. When the doors are about 3/4 the way open, you can hear the main brake set- "clunk". (Is that a selling point?) Anyway, very typical, and all good so far.

But, after the main brake sets with that characteristic "clunk", the then car drifts up about 1/2". which is about 12 mm. No bueno. It stops, but only after it has drifted up. It must stay at floor level, after the brake sets.

We are re-adjusting the brake shoes, looking for .004", which is roughly 0.1 mm.

We are checking the loadweighing.

Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Last edited by Vic; 05/10/12 10:04 PM.


   
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(@ifrratedpilot)
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you have brake issues. sounds like a dampening timer almost like a reverse pre-torque. lemme make a phome call to our Kone guru. see what he has to say.



   
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 Vic
(@Vic)
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Thank you



   
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(@ifrratedpilot)
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im thinking resolver angle not set right, but i take you are getting zero faults. got a call in to my guy, waiting for him to call me back. we will know instantly what the deal is.



   
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(@ifrratedpilot)
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my guru says your main brake isnt setting right, says .003 when picked. says you need to be able to spin the washers on the main brake when set.

says to check e brake set time and change to 3.0 seconds, thats your delay when doors open. says default is like 30 seconds.

lemme know if this helps, if not, provide more detailed info, and we will get it nailed down.



   
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(@iuec4me)
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the clunking will get better after you adjust the pod --lol brake pod to .004 -do you have the brake tool



   
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(@theshaft)
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The brakes should be set to .002 the noise will still be the but quiter ifratedpilot is right on the washer that is under the 15/16 head nut on both of the brakes you should barley be able to turn the washer with your fingers. You do not need a brake tool easy way to pick and drop the brake is to only push a direction on the cartop inspect station as it will only pick the ebrake. When done with the ebrake then just go in the controller swap the J4 connectors on the main and ebrake modules under the drive and the brake contacts XST on the brake modules as well. Now you have made the main the ebrake and you can use the inspection station to pick and drop the brake again to gap it then when done put it back how you had it. Then make sure to setup the brake contacts turn the screw it till you hear it click then unscrew till you hear it un click then 1 full turn out they will be set perfect you will get brake faults if you do not do the 1 turn out.



   
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 Vic
(@Vic)
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Originally Posted By: ifrratedpilot
my guru says your main brake isnt setting right, says .003 when picked. says you need to be able to spin the washers on the main brake when set.

says to check e brake set time and change to 3.0 seconds, thats your delay when doors open. says default is like 30 seconds.

lemme know if this helps, if not, provide more detailed info, and we will get it nailed down.

Thank you very much!
Going out there tomorrow, will check on that stuff.
Wow, .003, really? I can say almost for certainty that it is not set that close now. Maybe a wide .004". But we will set it to .003".



   
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 Vic
(@Vic)
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Originally Posted By: iuec4me
the clunking will get better after you adjust the pod --lol brake pod to .004 -do you have the brake tool

No, what's that for? (probably for adjusting the brake, duh!)

We were swapping main brake for emer brake power supplies in the controller. Then go back to the car top, push the car top inspection button, which picks the emer brake. but when you swap the wires main for emergency, it don't know which brake it's picking, that way you can adjust each brake one at a time. Then put them back right when you are done. Maybe a bit slower than the portable brake power supply, but at least you can pick each brake. Is that what you mean, by "brake tool", the portable power supply?

Last edited by Vic; 05/11/12 04:58 AM.


   
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 Vic
(@Vic)
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Originally Posted By: theshaft
The brakes should be set to .002 the noise will still be the but quiter ifratedpilot is right on the washer that is under the 15/16 head nut on both of the brakes you should barley be able to turn the washer with your fingers. You do not need a brake tool easy way to pick and drop the brake is to only push a direction on the cartop inspect station as it will only pick the ebrake. When done with the ebrake then just go in the controller swap the J4 connectors on the main and ebrake modules under the drive and the brake contacts XST on the brake modules as well. Now you have made the main the ebrake and you can use the inspection station to pick and drop the brake again to gap it then when done put it back how you had it. Then make sure to setup the brake contacts turn the screw it till you hear it click then unscrew till you hear it un click then 1 full turn out they will be set perfect you will get brake faults if you do not do the 1 turn out.

Heh heh, I was typing my last response to iuec4me, before I read your post! Ok, so that's how you set the switch screw, thanks. We guessed something very close to that, but it's good to know. .003" on the brake, ok, that's really, really close! Thanks for your input!



   
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(@ifrratedpilot)
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let us know what you find.



   
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(@iuec4me)
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yes that is what I was referring to -pretty slick lil gadget -makes it alot easier -

Last edited by iuec4me; 05/11/12 11:36 PM.


   
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(@ifrratedpilot)
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thanks for letting us know what you found.

sitting here waiting wondering.



   
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 Vic
(@Vic)
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I've been remiss to update you, my esteemed colleagues!

Sh#t, I've been so busy, sorry..

If I am on the car (245#), it stops accurately at all three floors,
up and down.

But if I get off the car, it will stop just fine to all floors up+dn, EXCEPT
the top floor. Going to the top empty, it comes in very controlled,
stops, then as the main brake is setting, it rolls up a bit, trys to level down,
61u+61n high), sets the brake, rolls up, etc, etc, then after a number of tries
it faults out. I suspect it only does this at the top floor, because all the
host ropes are hanging down the cwt side.

We got both brakes pretty close, about 003", but Monday I'm gonna do them
again.

Is there a timer that holds anti-rollback torque until the brake has well
and fully set?
I was so busy Friday, I didn't check loadweighing, but will Monday

Thanks everybody



   
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(@ifrratedpilot)
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lower your e brake set time.



   
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