Im not sure of a better solution but we stopped using innovation panels and have been using MAD stuff. The buttons themselves seem decent and haven't had much issues with them.
Separate question, what are you using to make the stud pattern? Been looking into a threaded stud welder for a while but would like some feed back from someone using one

We have a CD 700 at the shop for when we make fixtures or someone brings a plate in and a smaller CD 80 for taking out in the field if we need to. We made up plastic templates for studding up new COPS or hall plates, but when in the field modifying a plate, we just have extra long studs, put them thru the button and use the button for the pattern. Then once the nut is on, clip the extra length off. Alway have extra collets with you, they break easy with sideward pressure. Always put a pice of cardboard on the finish side between the grounding clamp and the plate. Don't use the spring clamp ground that comes with it. Drill thru a C=Clamp and use it to ground with. Always use the studs with the dimple on them, never the flat ones. And if you're going over an area where you broke off a stud or a stud failed, turn up the amps. Then turn back down for normal pops. We mark the amp dial with material thickness and stud size. When you stud 14 ga, you will see dimples if your to high of amps. Brass studs work great on stainless, no need to spend extra on stainless studs. the CD line is made by Midwest Fasteners. In 30 years we only need to replace damaged cords, the machines have held up great. The smaller 80 is all you really need, but with the 700 we can do up to 3/8" studs for handrails.

That is awesome. Thank you for the info

Mad,(dmg) is what PTL use and TKE used to use(not sure if the newer elevators still do or not) It is what we keep in stock and use in just about every situation, unless it is KONE or Schlindler.

We use the stud pro 3125xi, can take it right to the job site and use it in car panel or at the lobby panel a few times.