They are great valves though. The 20 fpm steps in the down high speed adjustment is frustrating when setting them up but from a maintenance standpoint, the only real downside is that you can't just adjust the down stop a little to hit the floor better without spending some time with the other down adjustments.

Only adjust down high speed with no pressure, this is more simple than it sounds, as I do these half turn changes while running up on inspect. When changing, get a down inspect speed first, so you know where to go back when complete. The small 1/8 turns or so will do your down slow, so if it ran flawless before, and you get an easy baseline, you can re adjust in 30 seconds or less. The difference in high speed empty, and high speed full load down, is around 45-50 FPM. Again this is just an easy reference to make sure you do not leave a valve set to a speed that exceeds the stated full load down.

The rest of the down screw adjusts are rather simple. After getting a solid full speed, and inspect speed (I use 8-11 for inspect) the start is based off of feel. Does the elevator drop out from under you? Turn in for a softer start, out is a faster start. The stop is again, feel based. In is softer stopping, out is firmer. The last is the slowdown. This is a distance based adjust, so if it's leveling too long, turn in. This final adjust CAN contaminate your stop, as if you are coming into floor, with too little leveling time, you would need a firmer stop to hit your floor height. Of course the obvious is true with a long level time, you would probably have a softer stop.

Up is again, rather simple. With cold oil is how I adjust this, and then ONLY fine tune, small changes, with warm oil. This is especially important if you have viscosity, as a warm oil adjustment does not mean the elevator can level in with cold oil if there was a power outage.

Set the valve up to baseline stated on sheet located right inside the door, right hand side. Low pressure is done with valves removed, run the car and turn the low pressure screw in to move. Once movement is detected, rotate screw out until you just hit 0 movement, then take the screw out another half turn, lock in place. Now set your up level speed (9-12 is what I use here) it's a larger 1 1/8 screw with just a an Allen key head, in faster, out is slower. Now run the car, start should have a slight draw out, again feel based, but you get good you can do it by sound. Out is a firmer start, In is a slower drawn out start. Up stop CAN contaminate but only if you turn it too much without other adjusts. The stop can draw your start or make level take forever. The slowdown is different in this respect to the down side. It actually will SLOW the leveling down, not just distance. Because of this I usually begin with it, if the start sounds good, feels good, I use the slowdown to try and hit close to the floor. Out is a firmer slowdown, slightly draws out time, can slow car down, in is less slowdown, car speeds will be higher at he 12, 6, and 2 inch points if you use IMS. Once I am close to floor heights, and it feels smooth with around 4 seconds of leveling time, I use the stop to dead nut the floor. Out is a firmer stop, In is softer.

I will now let the oil warmup by running the car, or letting viscosity finish, recheck for functionality and Viola, you have a set up I-2 or I-3 valve. When I first began adjusting, this process could take as long as an hour or two. I now start from a construction set up valve, to a completely adjusted setup, in 10 minutes or less.