Found this online, don't know if it will help or not.

The wye-delta is a full-voltage starter that requires a 6-lead motor and contactors that allow the motor winding to be connected in wye configuration during acceleration. Wye-connected motor windings experience phase voltage rather than full-line voltage. Efficiency is good; inrush current and initial torque is reduced; but switching to full line is not a smooth transition.

I'm confused?

Is your starter "wye-delta" or "across the line"?

If it's wye-delta, wye (A) transfers to delta (B) and then the valve opens for the car to move...

The car shouldn't move in wye.

Up and down direction...no tool. Good one. Northern or GAL interlocks? Northern stuff is great, but after a number of years they'll both give you trouble. Northerns has been more problematic in my opinion with this model. In the controller, upper left corner, that board board has 4 green LED's. That's the door lock/gate circuit. Watch these when your starter chatters or down direction fails- all 4 should be lit to run, and the last two on the right 24B3/24B4 toggle when the doors open/close. Check travel cable number 10 in the controller and make sure it's secure in its terminal. Taking TC wire #10 OFF places the car on cartop inspect. Hopefully you have prints. The door lock circuit on US prints for the 2000 can be a PITA.
Also check your 5 volt power supply, 5.05 should be good. Check it too at the TV5 terminal at the travel cable terminal strip on top of the controller. The top and bottom plugs and connectors on the PwrSupply are problematic.

had an issue similar to this a few months back. kept thinking it was the relay board, also some days found car faulted out for no reason. the card that is plugged into the motherboard with the selector plugged into it turn out to be the cuplrit. also like elmcannic was hitting on is to check your power supplies at the controller as well as car station. it doesnt take much fluctuation in voltage to make it go haywire.

5 volt power supply will cause most of the problems with these units. Not the power supplies themselves so much as the female connectors. We cut them off and replaced them with single female stacons that match the male pins and the power related problems go away!

I'm SURE studly will return with his find. It's kind of nice when we get to hear of a problem solved.

HEY STUDLY! YOOOHOOO...........

+1 on the power supply. Many issues with the connections to it. I've replaced the plugs with soldering the connections. No more issues with power supply then. Watch the ice cube relay at the left of the connections on top. Does it flicker when the starter does? If so then 90% sure that is it.

Sorry Guys been busy with other problems at other locations. I am happy to say that the US Accession has been restored to service. The problem was a bad capacitor in the lower left hand corner of the function board. A quick trip to World Electronics and the board was reinstalled and the elevator went back into service.

I spoke to Shawn at World about this issue and he told me it is a common problem with this controller vintage. The capacitor which I spoke about is there to keep several circuits functioning one of which is the door lock circuits.

Thanks to all of you for your words of wisdom. It was a strange call and I am glad is has been put to rest.

Sincerely,

Wayne

Thanks Danzeitz,

I did check my supply voltages and did adjust the 5 volt supply but that did not help. It turned out to be a bad function board. Thanks for your help.

Wayne

Good find!
Glad to hear it's out of your hair