Is it overshooting the top floor and leveling back down?

Does this have a wittur door operator?

The customer says it's the first run of the day but not everyday. I did find that the normal magnet was too low by 3/4" so I trimmed it. I also observe that when in leveling speed and on cartop inspection it starts off fine in leveling speed but starts bouncing. I put oil slippit in the tank and assumed the first few runs in the morning its getting on the normal magnet.

Yes it is wittur

Have you tried putting jack slime, cat oil directly on the piston?
How do the pistons look You?
You can also change the park floor.

What’s the oil temperature?

Adjust the soft stop on the car. It’s bouncing the dz but not faulting out. Had the same thing happen

Was having the same issue. If it overshot the floor. It will stop. Level down and kick out all calls. I fixed my issue by extending the up leveling zone.. in the position system menu on the UIT.

If you have a bucher tool (hand terminal)you'll probably want to go through your adjustments. Enduras are VERY sensitive. D Sol is notorious for causing oscillations. If you don't have a hand terminal you can still access your bucher menu from the UIT. you'll just have to put they're car on inspection first. I would adjust you up slow and relevel speed to around 0.7 - 0.8. D Sol around 40. Then get in the pit and check your up screen in the valve - make sure it's not caked in debris. Then check your 0 point and adjust as needed. I have a "rough" layout for the up section on enduras that I wrote out if you want me to send it to you. Again, it's not what you should have your settings at, but a good starting point

Also, if you guys are having overshooting at the top floor, I would check your magnets and make sure you don't have gaps. Also in your DSL you want about a 2-4 leveling. These are adjusted with P18 & P17

good ingo here.

Almost every time we run into crazy stuff on Tac32 twin telescoping, its the check valves. The elevator sits all night (or for a while), and one of the checks is leaking and there is a tiny air pocket in there and when it gets to floor its shaking or something is not matching up, thus door won't open. You can also try the CAT oil, but if you pour it in the tank it takes a month to get out to the end of the run to have any effect. You can also rub it directly on the piston and pour it into the moat of the jackhead. Schindler or someone used to have a little tool / pump thing that would pump it right in to the bleeder (thus the CAT oil is already in the jacks and not in the tank waiting to be dispersed over time.

Check valves.