Brake adjustment and lw setup.

I also get 21 101 26 126 faults. LW shows 0 .No trouble at intermediate floors. Hoistway switches check out.Randomly fails to decelerate at terminals.The best part is now I have two elevators with the same symptons.

21=Safety circuit open
26=Fault from drive system
101=drive stop (Drive Fault)
126=safety relay open (Drive Fault)

You need to check sub codes to figure out what's actually wrong

Most ETS and NTS failures on elevators-(not all) are due to the elevator opening the switch at too great of a speed or not opening it at all in the decel profile. This is sometimes caused by the car moving around in the rails. The timing of the switch operation within the decel profile is critical. If it was not installed and adjusted correctly you will eventually have failures.

a lot of these need an extra 200 lbs on the car. the counterbalance calcs we not right. try a few bags of sand on the car top see if the problem goes away

green pants I am so sorry to say this please don't take it wrong but what you just posted is what kills the rep of these units. It is what the big o say's to all mech's because they are misinformed. These cars are so load weigh dependant it's not funny. Have you ever worked on an MRVF? Battery units from hell. These are the exact ac version of load weighing to the drive unit that it's almost scary. If you dont have them set up to current specs they will kill you. I have these manuals on pdf, If you want them. Email me if you want them.Once you adjust these properly they will run just like a 211 OR A 335 with a relay DIN strip addon to get the relays off the pc board. Non stop. I have had many and
I mean many that have run for, at this point, 5 years with no problem but the battery on the cartop box that needs replaced every two years or so on the car top. The stuff that battery runs is crazy. hall buttons and all the cigar switches, Radio shack has them for 37.00$ sor so. As much as everyone slams them I love them, I would take 500 on service and make enough to retire with my company, I know flame the hell out of me but in the last couple of years they have sold hundreds of thousands of these in the USA. If you cant fix the highest selling units in the "US" your in trouble.

21 amd 170 faults - reset, fault Power down faults.
169 replace the damn battery
108 or 109 faults check load weighing.
Remember put 50% of load on half way point to get proper adjustment. them menus 5 1 to get the fine final tune of load weigh.

Half way point = sheave to sheave point in hatch, Quick tips for these units.

Also some one might have moved the nts magnets proper placement is in manual. You have to do a learn run to get it straight.

Oh the other thing is everyone that has these check All the plugs that attach to the adon and the pc board. The molex pins are getting put in wrong.
If you look at the plugs. you can see in the slots of the molex pin locks a silver color. The bad ones are black in the slots, these are the ones that the molex pin 'tit' is bent or broken back. When this happens it will not hold onto the pin that it is plugged into. Pull on the wires going into the plugs they willl come out with ease, I can tell you this , I have found this on 8 out of 10 controllers that I have seen in the last couple of years. Of course when I get them they have been condemed as lemons so maybe my numbers are skewed. Kone mechanics let me know if I am wrong please.

Thanks ,Let you know when I figure it out.I'd appreciate looking at some manuals.My emails are [email protected] or [email protected]

just thought i would share what we have found to be the problem in our area with these units. they dont run that bad but i wouldnt volunteer for any on my route. i do have 3 MRVF units on my route still and they dont run that bad either. its all about what you are comfortable with.

ive had a monospace where we couldnt find a particular fault and used a test weight on the car top to fault find. in the end bc we couldnt get a hold of a test tool and manual it was just easier to leave the test wieght where it was. not mechanic like but the best we could do.

where do you find the sub codes?