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Kone AMD 2.0 Door Operator Issues

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(@omgitsonme)
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Hoping for some insight/suggestions.
Had an old AMD 2.0 board blow out capacitors. I replaced the board and now I can't seem to get this one to "learn trip". I have the manual for this board but everything I do referenced by the manual does not seem to work.

Here is what it is doing now:

�Test buttons work opposite, I need to hit close button to open and open to close. When I press the learn button twice the doors work properly on test, but will go back to reversed buttons after attempting "learn trip".

�When performing "learn trip" the doors will automatically reopen after I run it close - is this normal?

�After cycling the doors about 2 times (the manual suggests no more than 5 cycles) on "learn trip" the State light flashes as if there is a fault.

�The close end LED does not light up unless I press hard on the connector and even then it quickly turns off after trying to cycle the doors.

�When I think the doors have learned and place the car back on normal operation, the doors never open, but will sometimes answer hall calls.

�The doors will sometimes open very slowly and if the proximity edge beams are broken the doors will slam shut.

*note*
This is a 4-stop EC controller (I believe an older H-800 version) with a Kone AMD 2.0 door operator system. The proximity edge is wired separately to the COP and there is no mechanical safety edge.

I'm starting to believe the issue is due to a bad encoder. I've tried various dips witch configurations but nothing seems to work.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated



   
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(@chicago)
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You should have a I/O expansion board next to door operator board? Are the LEDS on and reaching open and close end?



   
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(@uppo72)
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Is your supply exactly what it was with the old board? I don't know this type but assume its a ac vf drive type, I wonder if it does have some reference for the ac supply having a need to have the polarity in an exact way. Having reversed actions tend to point to this.



   
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(@john jay)
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did you try reversing the polarity of the motor leads?



   
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(@omgitsonme)
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Topic starter  
I have the correct voltage from D1 plug to the board but I did notice from GNDext to +24ext I read 32VDC.
I get a signal for close & open as well as open end but no close end LED. I have the door finally working but it still hasn't learned - the door tries to open even at open end and will keep doing this for about 8 seconds.



   
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(@Dmhughes)
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I tend to agree with John Jay, try reverse motor leads!



   
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(@uppo72)
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So is this a DC operator? is it a DC supply or a AC supply rectified? Just reversing the leads to the motor sometimes still makes the limits out of whack. I would still confirm your supply before anything else. If has 32v DC on the supply, what is it removed from the unit?



   
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(@Vatorgator)
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had same problem while installing new board,, had to reverse leads of motor in order to get a learn run, then all was well worth a shot



   
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(@omgitsonme)
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I'll give a shot at reversing the leads and see what happens.

uppo: It is a DC supply. I have a picture of the board if a visual look at it helps - I noticed this new board does not have a secondary winding (plug X19) and had to use a different plug to connect to D1; could this possibly be the cause of overvoltage?

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ds2zubdmnz4nr4v/AADDVPseCpHnYxOonEN2YVlsa



   
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(@uppo72)
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Originally Posted By: omgitsonme
I'll give a shot at reversing the leads and see what happens.

uppo: It is a DC supply. I have a picture of the board if a visual look at it helps - I noticed this new board does not have a secondary winding (plug X19) and had to use a different plug to connect to D1; could this possibly be the cause of overvoltage?

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ds2zubdmnz4nr4v/AADDVPseCpHnYxOonEN2YVlsa

Ok mate from the picture the new board does look different than what I've seen regarding a AMD drive 2. The D1 plug supplies the original power and from there to x19. I also notice, as you said, there is no x9 primary plug. So I am assuming the x6 is the direct 24DC supply, so I would confirm that supply is good, by removing it from the board and testing the voltage on the plug. If it over like you said then I would check why as you may have a floating neutral or something screwy like that.

Last edited by uppo72; 10/10/15 02:18 AM.


   
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(@omgitsonme)
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noted, I'll meter through and see if that may be the case. I appreciate everyone's help!



   
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