In addition to the large wrenches 1 1/2, 1 3/8 and 1 1/8 if my memory is right ( bring a large adjustable just in case ), you will need some long (10") feeler gauges preferable .004, ,003 and .002. I am going to make an assumption that you are a mechanic and familiar with the basics of brake operation.
Haughton put the brake coils inside the brake arms.
The shoes should be sanded prior to adjustment to eliminate any glaze on them. The bronze shoe holders at the top of each shoe should be lubricated and free of any paint.
I like to bevel the extreme outer brake shoe edges just a bit to aid getting your feeler gauges in.
Get the car on inspection and in the overhead with the weights landed. Then the brake can be electrically picked by bypassing the contacts needed to energize the brake coil.
1) The running clearance from back of the brake shoe to the brake arms should be .002 when the brake is de-energized.
To get this, the back (inner part of the arm between the shoe) of the arm must be clean so there is no debris between the back of the brake shoes and the brake arm. You may first need to sand the inner brake arms to remove any paint and accumulated junk.
3) The spring tension is set by backing the two large spring nuts on each brake arm out until they turn easily by hand. Then run them in by hand until you start to feel tension. This will be the brake tension nuts now touching the buck springs. Next mark the flat of the nut you are turning and then tighten the nut 3 1/2 turns. Do this for all four spring tension nuts. 3 1/2 to 4 turns should be enough to hold 125% of your rated capacity.
4) The bottom is set by adjusting the cone nuts in or out and then tightening down the outer locking nuts. This requires patience and care must be taking not to twist the shoe side to side on machines with two cone nuts. Most of the older gearless
machines just had one cone nut. The later had a cone nut on each side of the bottom of the brake arm to allow side to side adjustment.
5) The top brake clearance is set by adjusting locking nuts on the arm in or out with the threaded rod that runs across the top of the machine. Once again this takes patience to set this brake up correctly.
6) When set properly, the shoe to drum clearance is .002 all the way around the shoe when energized.
6) A properly set up brake is virtually silent when it picks. If you hear any clanks then you need to go back over your adjustments.
7) The electrical adjustments vary depending on whether or not they were using the leveling and partial brake circuits.
I hope this helps
Don
The geared brakes I am well familiar with too although it would be easier to send you a write up instead. Send me your email and I will be glad to send you back the info from one of my old Haughton manuals.
Here is some info that may help you. The procedure is pretty much the same with all of their geared brakes except the w250 machine. But this will work on your OH, and EK type machines.
Basically you set the overall pick with the threaded rod that runs through the spring . You'll need .045-.050 between the back plate and the brake core. Then by using the mechanical stop bolts under the brake shoes , you set the clearance on each side to .005. The bottom jack bolts are used to center the shoe to get your clearance the same at the top and the bottom. I seem to remember setting the main spring to 4 3/4 inches for your hold. And make sure the inner spring under the main spring is free to float about 1/32 of an inch when the brake is deenergized. This keeps the brake from hammering.
One of the main problems with the brake on the OH machines is the brake pins journals get worn on the actual frame of the machine causing the brake to get real sloppy.
I have fixed this by having a machine shop bore out the pin journals and make oversize new pins. Hopefully yours is the EK machine which is a much better machine although they all leak.