Just went through this on the same equipment. Are your ropes on? My construction guy did the encoder alignment wrong but was close enough to run. Car was drawing way too much current when I was adjusting it out with weights. I had to do an encoder alignment with a rotating sheave. I landed the weights and put rail blocks on and picked the car up to get slack. That wasn't enough, still was too much friction, note the sheave did turn but was too much friction for the alignment to work. I had to raise the car alot and get enough slack and have my helper hold the ropes up completely off the sheave. Once the ropes weren't touching it, did the alignment and it took 3 or 4 seconds, worked perfectly. Encoder was aligned and car had no more overcurrent issues.

Also you can't just swap phases with PM motors. You'd have to do that in a drive setting to reverse direction. I'd put everything back where it was per the prints. Sounds like the rotor not align and motor phase faults are symptoms of it not completing the encoder alignment

Yeah machine is not roped, did open loop alignment and it runs for 2 seconds then faults on the drive. Performing the auto align or HF inject provides a Encoder Angle that only changes by a few each time but shakes violently when trying to run.

Thats very similar to what mine was doing as far as running 2 seconds then stopping with a rotor align fault, which the only thing causing it to fail was some drag from the ropes. I also had no success in using the auto align or hf inject stationary alignment methods. It was off by a bit. It would run but poorly.

Are you sure both brakes are lifting fully? Is the encoder cable ran in its own conduit? Possibly a loose encoder connection? It could be a bad part too.

Not sure if it matters much but I'd done a motor auto tune before aligning the encoder also.

Another thing you could try as a last resort would be to go to the U menu and enable encoder alignment then go left or right to the adjust menu and manually change the encoder offset number from what it is after the auto align method. It was roughly 580 after autalign on my car and after the successful open loop alignment it was around 365 just to give you an idea. I doubt that would be the most accurate though.

Yeah oof, doing it 1 deg angle at a time will take some time that’s for sure. I heard someone mentioning roping the car after doing it and it will help although not sure about it. Also I wish there was a way to pick brakes electronically on construction mode for SmartRise but alas you cannot only in test mode.

Alright we figured this out.

So here is the procedure if this don’t work for you I’ve listed everything we did and what results it yielded.

Encoder change = no improvement
Encoder cable change = no improvement
Changed Endat card = no improvement
Swapped A & A- channels = no improvement
Swapped motor leads = no improvement

This is what worked

Put tension on rotor using chainfall and strap, performed AutoAlign U10 also changed A1 interia to 1.00 from 2.00 (read in the book this would make the shakes less violent) = no more violent shake

Now we tried running and got Encoder Fault (ENCODER FLT) we swapped 2 motor leads = Good! Finally moving no faults in opposite direction.

Changed direction on C1 Motor Rotation: success!

Conclusion when performing auto align and nothing is working out tension(LOAD) on the sheave do an auto align not Open Loop.

Running the alignment roped with a balanced load has worked well on all models of TK drives with Torin machines. Never done one on an HPV 900 though.

Very interesting what worked on your car! Completely the opposite of mine. Which Torin machine is your car? The one I just couldn't get to do a roped alignment is their mini gearless version with two flat normal brakes (one on each end of machine) model TMGL3-4535. This is with the HPV900.

I have another job with all of the normal size Torin gearless machines that have the disk brakes, one normal and one the ebrake, model TGL2A machines. These cars have F5 drives but KEB is similar they also have a unroped open loop alignment method and roped stationary alignment method. On these cars I've had no problem at all doing a stationary alignment with an empty unbalanced car. I've never tried the other way on these.

With a balanced load you wouldn’t do the stationary alignment. You are letting the sheave move to do its think just with a little resistance like he did with the strap.