Chris,

The second is the open timer adjustment.

Check and make sure OHS relay is dropping out when the door hits OSD1, your first slow down. Next OSD2 should close slowing down the door. Last DOL opens dropping out OD to stop the door.

What type of controller?

What is the number on the board? And is it a dover board?

I would think if it was installed the 70's it would be a resistor type operator.

Thanks for the reply.

Are the slow down distances set similar to GAL? 1st at 3/4 of open distance then 2nd at the last 4 inches? I don't think my problems lie in the switching but in the resistors.There is 1 band on one of the door resistor that is missing a wire, and I cant seem to find the resistor location on the prints. Like I said there have been modifications done and not recorded anywhere so I need to establish what was changed.I was hoping to determine typical resistor ratings and settings to compare to what I have.

Thanks again

Thanks for the reply

Dover hydro controller. Yes the operator is a resistor type, I am trying to get adjustment info for the resistors. I cant locate all the resistors (3) on the prints

How many taps on the resistor do you have? On my equipment that is newer then that has 8 from left to right is A, Ndg, csd1. Cd2, center tap, osd2, osd1, and ohs. To slow down move taps closer to center tap.

See if your resistors are still good enough to use, but then test the resistance to check for spares and wattages. You would normally have initial close speed, fast speed close and final close speed for typical resistor PDO's. Check your operation of this. If your final close speed is too fast, then check which limit operates last(generally opens) close to fully closed, then trace your wiring to that resistor to test functionality. Do this for all limits of which may be the problem.

Chris,
Dover made several types of controllers. If you are not sure which controller you have please post the following.
1) a photo of the controller
2) a photo of the door operator
3) the drawling numbers on the prints you have.
4) the drawling number for the door print

You can post the photos and info on the photo gallery...

I'm confused(what's new), it has a board and a resistor. Pics would be greatly appreciated.

Sbrmilitia,

I'm confused as well! Hopefully he will post pictures so we may see what he has. When he was asked which controller he posted "Dover Hydro Controller"...

Hearing that as his answer sends up a red flag for me!

Chris,
Please don't take this as an insult. Your profile says your a supervisor. How long have you been working in the Elevator Industry?

I am absolutely taking it as an insult!I appreciate people taking time to try and enlighten me but keep your snotty comments to yourself. I have been in the business for 26 years and I am the first one to admit I don't know everything, but I guess some people do. I am not on the job now and I will send pictures when I get there Tuesday.
By the way the comment about the controller is accurate, it is a Dover Hydro, there are boards in the controller (power, door, car ,hall etc.), the are two pots on the door board only one of which is labeled and the door operator has 3 250 ohm resistors in the controller cabinet.

"Better to be silent and assumed to be an idiot then to open ones mouth and remove all doubt"

Chris,
It was not my intent. I am trying to establish that I am not giving information to someone like a clever building maintenance mechanic. I would be happy to try and help.

I apologize for doubting your veracity. I am looking for a write up. But I believe it's for an HD door operator. If you would like I will let you know when I find it...

Reason I was confused cause I thought you meant there is resistors and a board in the operator box. So there is only a board in the operator on the car top correct? And 3 resistors in the controller? This info if it is correct it is a totally different operator then jkh and myself first thought you were asking questions about.

its an oildraulic controller, the door board he is talking about is in the controller, it is part of the logic system, along with the power, car board etc. the door board has nothing to do with controlling the speed of the doors, the 2 pots are for door hold open times only. the 3 resistors in the controller are r1d, r2d, r3d r2d is the resistor that will control the open hi speed, this is probably the resistor that has the wire removed, it would be the wire that goes to the OHS relay contact. r3d is the resistor that controls open start speed, and close speed. it will have 2 sliders on it to adjust these speeds. r1d is a fixed resistor on the negative side of the power supply, and is fixed, no adjustment. i say that the resistor with the wire removed is hi speed, because if the OHS timer fails, or the mechanic can't adjust the hi speed of the door properly, this is sometimes removed. seen it a few times. if you say the doors don't decal properly, then you either have the overall speed set to hi, which case you would adjust the taps for open and close , or the slowdown resistor on the car top in the door operator is open, or some problem there. you can force the doors into slowdown by putting a jumper between CT, and the slowdown bands for each speed,
what i would do is take the slowdown wire CT off of the slowdown resistor, then set overall door speed to something that does not slam the doors open or close, then put ct back on and fine tune the slowdowns. slowdown cams should be set similar to gal same idea. if you need any prints i have some good luck

a properly adjusted door, would start to open slowly, about 1-2", then the OHS relay would pick up, which would initiate hi speed, you need to adjust the OHS timer in the controller, to adjust the slow start of the doors, along with the A band on the door operator i believe it is A

Sorry about the confusion, but I finally got to the job yesterday. I don't have time this morning to go into much detail, but what I found was that the r3 resistor door close wire was removed from the adjusting band and relocated to the end post on the r3 resistor to try to slow the door down I believe. The OHS wire was attached to r2 resistor which I moved to r3 and the open speed is much better,but I still have virtually no slowdown during door close. The previous mechanic had Csd1 and Csd2 cams almost aligned at about center of the door close, when I move them to there proper position the close gets worse? I have to go back again this week to check the resistor in the operator, I ran out of time yesterday.