They say Left CWT and Right CWT meaning counterweight. My guess would be rail oilers. 2 for main rails and 2 for counterweight rails.

Ahh yes CWT that makes more sense! should I refill them you think with Adams Worm Gear? do you think the leak in cab is from loose line where they connect ? thanks. Any other input can provide is greatly appreciated!

Update: the top box says right main and is mostly empty of oil the bottom box says left main and is completely empty of oil

Another update this label was inside the oil boxes... would Adams worm gear be considered a light oil?

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I’d imagine any old multi grade motor oil would work or good old fashioned 30wt. Machine gear oil is a bit thicker and heavier than 30wt.
The leak is most likely caused by too much oil flowing onto rail face and the top guide shoe is acting like a squeegee. Look at the oil cans afixed to the top of the rails and all tubing to ascertain they’re all in good order.
The tighter the wicking clamps, the less oil will pass through. Once you fill those cans, you’ll want to check back soon and they may need more or less pressure to regulate the flow.
Is it the left side of the ceiling that’s got the leak? If so, lightly snug up the wicking clamp for that side, then clean up the mess and watch.

Thanks @elmcannic appreciate it. If inside the cab and facing forward towards elevator door it would be the front left corner. Took some pictures of above cab to see rails and where the shoes attach, the green one to the right would roughly be where the leak falls - it was the left main oil box that was empty (note the Watson drive machine leaks quite a bit so it could be coming from the machine as well (which can see in pic) any tips on slowing the leak from the drive machine?)

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Looking at your pictures, it appears the machine is leaking gear oil. There’s an absorption pad on the floor at the back of the machine (deflector side) and oil at the machine beams same end on the underside. But also in the pics it shows oil on that Crosby rope clamp which suggests oil may be dripping from the cars rope drop. Could be the thrust end seal is bad or the motor side at the worm shaft.

Either way you should be able to visually see where the leak is coming from. There’s no way to “slow the leak”other than new seals, but you can place a suitable catch can under either end of the machine to collect the dripping oil and simply cycle the clean oil back into the machine. Small tin pans from the market work well and they’re cheap.

Be sure to check if you haven’t, the oil level in the machine gearbox (a recommended gear oil) and motor bearing oil pots if they’re present (30wt.). Looks like older equipment and oil pots (with slinger rings) on the motor were common back then.

Thanks, been using Adam’s worm gear oil 680
the oil gauge is about 5/8’s - 3/4 full

Think most of leak was coming from overflowing drip pan at the worm shaft it probably fills in about a week (seems fast)

This is our motor it’s been replaced with an imperial
how do I check and refill these?

On another note, going to try to find replacement grease zerks for machine and a gun to refill, any recommendations on type of grease zerk gun and can I use the same Adam’s worm gear oil for those

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I would search out a local reputable licensed, bonded, and insured elevator service and repair company to maintain your elevator equipment.

I too at this point would highly recommend a licensed service company to care for your aged equipment. I’m assuming you’re the owner after a re-read of this thread (especially the last post)…are we right?
I’ll say it once…you can get too comfortable tinkering with a piece of equipment that doesn’t care about whether your hand, arm or leg somehow gets caught in the rotating equipment. Again, it doesn’t care. You need someone who’s trained in the knowledge of elevator service/repair and has the skills to not guess at what needs what, but can identify and perform the task at hand minimizing physical risk. Might I add you maybe placing yourself and the building tenants at risk.