Sounds like your selector thinks it's at the top floor. Check 1s, 2s, 3s & 1L, 2L, 3L...

Any idea what year? Is it a single button simplex? Can you post a picture?

It's controller# 1230.
3 sold state cards, A board has relays
B board is binary card
C board is extra features
Selector system, 5 inductors.
Checked dsd switch towards bottom, good.
Checked voltage at power card, 5.2vdc

You need to check all LEDs to see what state switched are in. A PCD (hand held tool) is almost a must to determine faults and modes of operation. I have never hears of a 1230 opening the doors with a button from a different floor. Like old relay elevators do when they get out of step. If a direction switch in the up was open and the car is on the dsd switch at the bottom was open it will throw a fault that the car lost and thinks its a 2 places at once. You can see the switches without a PCD on the power relay board .

Sounds as if there is possibly more than one issue. However...
I'm curious when you say, "You fire top floor car call, the car will run up, then fault out and go to basement". Does it run up at least until the top slowdown switch opens? Watch the "HRV" L.E.D. When this indicator goes dim, the car is in a fault condition and will return to the bottom to attempt to reset itself. If it stays dim (when the car is at rest), the doors shouldn't open anywhere. Is the DSD limit actually opening on the cam? I believe there are two sets of contacts on the terminal switches. If the car leaves the bottom, and DSD does not close, as soon as the STU mag picks for landing 2, the car faults and returns to the bottom. Do you have job or generic 1230 prints? FYI- DSD/STD and TSD/STU have to pick at the same time or this is another fault condition. I see I am late to this post, but has the trouble been remedied?

Fixed, pulled power board(board with capacitor) out, looked at it and re installed. Making sure all 3 sets of pins go in straight.
main line in, elevator works?
Why?
Thanks.

Well I suppose by simply pulling/resetting the board, you basically cleaned 'em up enough to create a better contact point. The pins on the mother board regardless of slot (A1, A2 etc.) have a slight tendency to flake out after so many years...like what, 30? There's not much mechanical pressure on them to stay "in" if you get what I'm saying. On occasion I've used an orange stick to gently push each mother board pin set inwards to aid in better continuity to the card gold fingers. I've had jobs where a piece of cardboard between the A2 and A3 boards would "cure my troubles" simply due to the pressures they created on the contact pin point. Glad you found it.

Thanks for your feedback guys.

We would parallel the 3 phase power going to the power relay boards with 18 ga wire. The connection between the pins on the mother board and the leaf springs on the removable boards would become hot and melt the plastic around the leaf spring causing an even poorer connection causing even more heat........Pulling the boards on a 1220 or 1230 other than A1 A2 A3 should be very hard and you should be worried you are going to break something. If personality boards or power relay boards are easy to remove you have lost spring pressure. Turn the boards over and look for leaf springs that are flat and didn't return to the center of the square holes. A1 A2 and A3 boards can be flexed with your thumb in the middle right and left if doing this causes problems you need to remove and lightly clean board edges and check mother board for flattened leaf spring there also.